After a couple of weeks in the islands of the south, it’s time to bounce north.
Bangkok is one of my favorite cities in the world. It’s a busy metropolis, sure, but there are all sorts of nooks and crannies to explore. The best and most impressive Buddhist temples in are in Bangkok and the street food scene is insane.
Despite almost 11 million people in the metropolitan area, it’s hard to find a piece of trash on the street – which is odd, because it’s also very difficult to locate a trash can. When I touched down in Bangkok for the first time, I thought it chaotic. After spending time in other major cities across South and Southeast Asia, I now see it as crowded but orderly.
I usually stay in the much quieter Silom area of the city. I love my morning run in Lumphini Park. I like to spend an afternoon hopping between fabulous temples or perusing giant markets and eating food from the street hawkers. And there’s no better place to be when the sun sets than aboard a water taxi, chugging down the Chao Phraya River.
My time in Thailand is limited this time, so it’ll just be an overnight in Bangkok.. It’s a short a ferry ride from Koh Tao to Chumpon, where I can catch a bus to Bangkok. A rainy morning makes leaving paradise a whole lot easier.
My bus lets out near Khao San Road, which isn’t my favorite neighborhood, but its only for the night. Khao San is a sort of Gomorrah for backpackers. It’s full of these multistory nightclubs with pulsating lights and throbbing bass. You can buy beer by the yard, watch Thai women do untoward things with ping pong balls, or munch overpriced fried insects on a stick. Mostly, it’s a an alcohol-fueled, open air party. Behavior that would be uncouth in the rest of Thailand is perfectly acceptable on Khao San Road and the Thai authorities are pretty lax here where they aren’t otherwise. Gotta keep those tourist dollars flowing.
It’s definitely not my scene, but there isn’t much else to do. So I stroll over to catch some of the debauchery. When I arrive though, all of the clubs are shuttered and the street is dark. Covid mandates change here on a daily basis. Or it could be a Buddhist holiday, of which there are many, and alcohol sales are banned. I’m not sure which, but the party is definitely off. Seeing an empty Khao San at night is eerie. It’s another one of those “Twilight Zone” moments that have become a regular thing during pandemic.
I book a bed in a nondescript, not terribly appealing little hostel. My first time around, I booked hostels almost exclusively. A clean bed and a place to lock my things is really all I need – I’m usually out exploringall day anyway. But with hostels come shared bathrooms and noise, and unpleasant odors and lights flipped on in the middle of the night. As a solo traveler, it’s a great way to meet people, sure, but I prefer a little respite of my own.
I catch a morning flight to Chiang Mai for around $20 – my checked baggage actually costs slightly more.
After touching down in Chiang Mai, I head directly to the Old City and Jay Guesthouse. I’m skeptical about taxis and tuk tuks in general, but especially outside of airports. The drivers are unscrupulous, and as a foreigners, it’s hard to know what a given ride should cost.
Pro tip: use a ride hailing app to compare the price a taxi driver quotes you to the true price. Then ask them to match. In Southeast Asia, Grab is the best way to book transportation. In big cities, a motorbike is definitely the way to go.
The taxis at the airport in Chiang Mai are fixed price and cheap. The Old City is on the more touristic side of Chiang Mai, but it’s very charming and everything is within walking distance.
I return to Jay Guesthouse to stay with “Mama”. The accommodations are basic, but I get a private room for the price of dorm bed elsewhere. Mama is the reason I return and will always come back. She’s practically dancing when she sees me. When you’re here, your one of her kids. She’s got a quick smile and an even quicker wit. And if you sit nearby for more than a minute, she’ll end up feeding you.
I love Chiang Mai. It’s got a little hustle and bustle but also a quiet side – just a little too quiet this time around. I spend a day and a half getting reacquainted with the Rose of the North. I lose myself in the alleys of the Old City and visit Doi Suthep to wander among the golden stupas and jade Buddhas. I go on a morning run along the moats of the Old City and across the Ping River. I hit the flower market in China town and eat street food for dinner at Chang Phuek Market.
Khai Soi Khun Yai has some of the best Khao Soi in all Thailand. It’s one of my favorite dishes: a broth of red curry and coconut milk, soft noodles and a chicken leg, topped off with a mound of crispy golden fried noodles and cilantro.
It’s hard to go wrong with noodles in Thailand. Pad Si Ew is also amazing. Fat doughy noodles are stir fried with greens and soy sauce with a choice of pork, chicken, or tofu. Grazie Thai Local Noodle does a good job.
I go to catch a lady boy show at RAM Bar – formerly home to the best drag show I’ve ever seen. The show is in full swing, but it’s a ghost town. There are just three souls in the whole place. There’s something depressing about a drag show in an empty bar. Across town there are empty storefronts and everything is a bit subdued. My hope is it will all bounce back. Anyone who’s survived this long has been through the worst of it.
Christopher’s Travels 