ckdowling

Sneaking into Srinagar

I manage to sneak into Srinagar under the cover of night. It’s half past 8 when we reach the first military checkpoint some miles outside of the city. A flashlight beam cuts across our faces and an officer approaches the passenger side. He speaks first to the others, and leaning in, directly to me. IContinue reading “Sneaking into Srinagar”

Escaping the Rains in Ladakh

The Southwest Monsoon During the summer, when the air over India grows very hot, it expands and rises. Cool sea air rushes in to take its place, creating a massive air current that reaches south of the equator. The current gathers moisture over the ocean and drops it as rain over the land. As theContinue reading “Escaping the Rains in Ladakh”

Skipping through Spiti

I’ve spent a good deal of time in the North Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. I’ve passed more days wandering its forested slopes and meandering its river valleys than any other state on the subcontinent and I’d venture to say that it’s one my favorite places – maybe on the planet. June is the lastContinue reading “Skipping through Spiti”

Getting Lost in the Parvati Valley

The Parvati Valley is this fairytale world tucked into a mountain crease in the center of Himachal Pradesh in Northern India. Pine cathedrals and steep mountain trails overlook the roiling Parvati River. Villages, accessible only on foot, perch precariously on mountainsides and cannabis grows with wild abandon. It’s a mystical place, where Hindu Gods onceContinue reading “Getting Lost in the Parvati Valley”

As Seen in the Parvati Valley

A Moment in Amritsar

April and May are the dog days of summer on the Indian plains. A heat wave grips much of India as I leave my mountain respite in Himachal Pradesh for the flats of Punjab. It takes five hours to cover the 130 miles to Amritsar. Luckily I’m in a shared taxi with air conditioning –Continue reading “A Moment in Amritsar”

As Seen in Dharamshala

A Season in Dharmshala

When India started to ease pandemic regulations in late 2021, tourist visas were limited to just 30 days – which is barely enough time to catch your breath. I obtained a year-long student visa to study Tibetan Buddhism in Dharamshala, the heart of Tibetan exile world in India. I just have to get there first.Continue reading “A Season in Dharmshala”

As Seen in Rishikesh

Rishikesh!

Located in the Indian state of Uttarakhand, Rishikesh straddles the Ganges River in the foothills of the Himalayas. In the spring, the waters run clean and cold from the river’s source in high mountain glaciers. Rishikesh is spiritual mecca, perhaps best known as the yoga capital of the world. Hundreds of thousands flock here everyContinue reading “Rishikesh!”